ROME (AP) — Donatella Versace has been replaced as creative director of the Italian luxury fashion house founded by her late brother Gianni Versace, assuming the new role of chief brand ambassador, Versace’s U.S. owner Capri Holdings announced on Thursday.
Versace will be replaced by Dario Vitale, who most recently was design director at the Miu Miu brand owned by the Prada Group. His appointment is effective on April 1.
Versace, 69, welcomed Vitale, emphasizing in a statement that “championing the next generation of designers has always been important to me,'' while Vitale, 41, thanked Versace for "her trust in me.”
Donatella's legacy
Versace was thrust into the role of creative director in 1997 after her brother's murder in Miami, at first tentatively and then with a boldness that led to some big runway and red carpet moments. They included a healing and celebratory tribute to Gianni Versace on the 20th anniversary of his death, featuring supermodels that he helped create alongside a new generation of celebrity model, and Jennifer Lopez in an even skimpier version of the jungle dress that nearly broke the internet at the 2000 Grammys, reprised on the Spring-Summer 2020 runway.
Versace acknowledged the difficulty of her transition as she took from her brother, known for his sexy silhouettes and purposely loud prints and of the Versace Medusa and Greca motifs. Under Donatella, Versace became synonymous with the power woman she herself projected, despite periods of self-doubt.
“I asked why I took so long to find my way,” she told reporters ahead of the anniversary show. “The first few years I wasn’t sure of myself. I made mistakes. But you learn from your mistakes.”
Sale rumors
The creative shift comes amid speculation that the Prada Group is in talks to buy Versace from Capri Holdings, which paid 2 billion euros (currently $2.2 billion) for the fashion house in 2018. The U.S. group also owns Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo.
Miuccia Prada acknowledged interest in the brand on the sidelines of Milan Fashion Week last month, while Versace made no comment at what was to be her last runway show. Versace symbolically wore a vintage jacket that Gianni made for her in 1992, inspired by the powerful Miss S&M collection.
Capri Holding’s statement made no mention of any plans to sell Versace, but the arrival of a designer from Miu Miu is only likely to fuel speculation of a possible deal.
Versace tributes
Versace received an outpouring of love and support on social media posts marking the shift from younger designers she has championed, including Roberto Cavalli creative director Fausto Puglisi and former Valentino designer Pierpaolo Piccoli, along with tens of thousands of fashion fans.
“I hope I’ve made you proud so far,” Versace wrote in an Instagram post celebrating her and her brother's major moments in Versace's nearly 50 years.
They included photos of Gianni and Donatella together, and major Versace celebrity moments featuring Lady Diana, Naomi Campbell, Elton John, Adele, Taylor Swift, Gigi Hadid, Lady Gaga, Madonna, Jane Fonda and many more.
Looking ahead
Versace CEO John D. Idol said in a statement that the creative shift was “part of a thoughtful succession plan for Versace.” He called Vitale “a strong leader,’’ and expressed confidence that “his talent and vision will be instrumental to Versace’s future growth.”
As chief brand ambassador, Versace “will continue to champion the Versace brand and its values,’’ Idol said.
Versace represented 20% of Capri Holdings 2024 revenue of 5.2 billion euros. Capri recently laid out strategic plans to rebalance the Versace portfolio to return the brand to its more daring roots, increase sales of accessories and win back entry-level consumers put off by a post-pandemic focus on higher net-worth clients.
During the presentation, Idol acknowledged that Versace had recently struggled in menswear “where the historical ... customer was used to us being very, very loud. And we've gone much quieter.”
Champion of younger designers
Versace said she was “thrilled” that Vitale would join Versace and that she was “excited'' to see the brand her brother founded in 1978 “through new eyes.”
“It has been the greatest honor of my life to carry on my brother Gianni’s legacy. He was the true genius, but I hope to have some of his spirit and tenacity,’’ she said in a statement. “In my new role as chief brand ambassador, I will remain Versace’s most passionate supporter. Versace is in my DNA and always in my heart.’’
Colleen Barry, The Associated Press
