At this wonderful time of the year, I am drawn to white wines that remind me of spring. Floral bouquets and refreshing flavours with a bit of zip, thanks to their young acids.
And here’s one that I discovered last weekend, the 2017 Via Condotto Verdiccio dei Case Casgello di Jesu Classico Superiore DOC ($19.99). Now that title is quite a mouthful! And so is the wine when you taste it, and it's a pleasure to swallow.
Three decades ago, most Italian white wines, including Verdiccios, were neutral or watery at best. Thanks to vast improvements in soil management and viticultural changes, Verdiccio which comes from the Marches region of central Italy is probably going to be Italy’s best indigenous white grape.
The gorgeous lemon gold colour immediately suggests that the Via Condotto Verdiccio is going to reveal an impressive bouquet and flavour. And so it does! Its nose displays plenty of citrus, tree fruit, spring wildflowers and almonds, often a characteristic scent in Italian whites.
On the palate there is a hearty presence of quince, ripe apple and a zingy amount of acid to balance the generous fruit, ending with a dry finish. Enjoy with pasta with clams in white sauce or puttanesca.
As much as I love white wines, right now it’s cherry blossom time. Nothing would be more appropriate to sip than a 2018 Kim Crawford Rosé ($17.99). Kim Crawford has a huge fan base with their Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough region of the South Island. But this rosé, which is made from Merlot and Malbec grapes, comes from a warmer region, Hawke’s Bay on the North Island. There the red grapes can ripen better than they can on the South Island.
It’s a refreshing spring spectacular with its bouquet of berries and flavours of watermelon, rhubarb and cranberries, with a dry peppery finish. If you think rosés are either a too sweet or lack character, the Kim Crawford will change your mind. Perfecto with tuna tartare cones or watermelon salad with feta cheese.
My final selection is a very affordable 2017 Palo Alto Merlot, Shiraz, Tempranillo, Viognier ($13.99). It’s from the Maule Valley in Chile and its sister wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Shiraz has been a budget favourite of mine for years.
This is the first time I’ve enjoyed the M, S, T, V. With Merlot and Shiraz being the majority of the blend, expect red fruit and smooth tannins. The Tempranillo contributes leather, licorice and smoked sausage to the bouquet. On the palate there’s dried fruit, smoke and vanilla.
It’s very Spanish so go ahead and enjoy with Spanish almonds, grilled lamb with rosemary, lemon and garlic, and Manchego cheese. Olé!
P.S. You might also want to try the Palo Alto Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Shiraz. It’s blackberries, blueberries, and mocha in a bottle. And it’s only $12.99 on sale until March 31st.
Eric Hanson is a veteran wine educator and a retired Richmond science teacher.
