Port wines are delicious dessert wines that originate from Portugal. They are often overlooked but because of their sweetness, they are generally easy to drink and enjoy. Port is a fortified wine made by adding distilled grape spirit, usually brandy or aguardiente, to a wine base. The addition of the high-alcohol spirit stops fermentation and “fortifies” the wine.
Port is made in Portugal’s Douro Valley. Much like how only sparkling wine from the Champagne region can be called Champagne, the EU countries have agreed that only wines produced in the Douro Valley can be labelled Port.
More than 80 grape varieties can be used to produce Port. The major varieties used in Ports with a red wine base are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Tinta Cão, Tinta Barroca and Touriga Franca. Touriga Franca is the easiest to cultivate and, therefore, the most widely planted variety. Touriga Nacional, though the most difficult to manage in the vineyard, is seen as the most desirable.
There are so many different varieties of Port wines that often lead to confusion. There are two main categories of ports: Ruby Ports and Tawny Ports. The main difference is that Ruby Ports are aged in oak barrels for generally a shorter period than Tawny Ports. Ruby ports continue to develop even after they are bottled. Ruby ports are generally fruity with a dark ruby colour. There are various categories of Ruby Port. In ascending order of quality, they are Ruby, Ruby Reserva, Crusted, Late Bottled Vintage, Vintage Single Quinta and Vintage.
I personally enjoy Vintage Single Quinta and Vintage ports. Vintage Single Quinta are single vintage ports produced in years where the quality doesn't achieve the Vintage status. These wines are usually less concentrated and complex and also less expensive than Vintage Ports. Vintage Ports are the highest classification of Ruby ports. They usually spend two to three years in oak barrels before aging more time in the bottle (sometimes for dozens of years) before release. Most Port houses declare a Vintage Port three to four times each decade.
Tawny Ports are made from the same grapes as Ruby Ports but they mature in 600-litre wooden barrels, where the oxidation make these wines a lighter tawny colour. Their aromas are more nutty and woody. Tawny wines, in ascending order of quality, are Tawny, Tawny Reserva, Tawny with age indication (10,20,30,40+) and Colheita
It is really exciting to drink very old Tawny Ports. Because they do not improve after they are bottled, they are quite affordable considering the age of some of these Ports. My favourite type of Tawny Ports is Colheita Port, which is Tawny Ports from a single vintage. Generally, Colheita Ports will stay in a wooden barrel for at least seven years before being bottled.
Now it is your turn to try Port. For a very basic Ruby Port, try Sandeman’s Fine Ruby priced at $23.99. For a more complex Port, try the Taylor Fladgate 10 and 20 Tawny Port Gift Pack for $62.99. A really nice way to experience Port is to try the Graham’s Gift Pack, which contains a 200mL bottle of Fine White Port (made from white grape varietals), Six Grapes (Reserva Ruby Port), Late Bottled Vintage along with 10 year and 20 year Tawny Port. Because Port is quite sweet and high in alcohol, you only need a small amount for each sitting.
For more information about Port, see my Port primer video here. Until next time, happy drinking!
Tony Kwan is a Richmond News columnist. Lawyer by day, and a food and wine lover by night. Kwan is an epicurean who writes about wine, food and enjoying all that life has to offer.
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