It’s time to explore three French wines that deliver very good quality at decent prices. After the Christmas spending spree, it’s time to search for good value.
Looking back at 2021, one of the few in-person wine events I attended was the Rhône Rally. Teams of wine journalists and sommeliers ran around Granville Island following clues. Upon arrival at the destination, we were asked questions on Rhône wines, the different varietals, the characteristics of the wines, and various well-known and some rather obscure facts of wine production and history. At the end, there was a tasting at the Granville Island Hotel with a variety of Côtes du Rhône whites and reds.
It was at this tasting that I rediscovered the joys of the 2019 Les Halos de Jupiter Côtes du Rhône ($23.99; 92 points). It’s produced by Philippe Cambie, who was crowned Oenologist of the Year in 2011 by Robert Parker. Cambie, who died last month, was the consulting winemaker for dozens of wineries in Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the Southern Rhone. He was also the owner of his Les Halos de Jupiter.
The red is a cuvée of 75 per cent very old Grenache, 15-per-cent Mourvèdre, and 10-per-cent Syrah. The grapes have an advanced level of ripeness and are aged in concrete. They are neither fined nor filtered to preserve their personality and intensity.
Les Halos is concentrated with aromas of ripe black and red fruit, nuts, and licorice. On the palate, it’s seductive, mellow and delicious with black currants and blackberries along with spice and black pepper, smooth tannins, with a dry fruity and earthy finish. You can enjoy it now or cellar until 2024.
Les Halos de Jupiter would pair really well with wild boar or lamb. Steak and kidney pie and bangers and mash would also be tasty, especially if you pour an ounce or two of the wine in with the recipe!
Another tasty wine I tasted at the Rhône Rally is the Gabriel Meffre 2020 Côtes du Rhône Blanc St. Vincent ($17.99; 91 points). This blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Rousanne makes an appealing vibrant and fruity dry white. Enjoy its floral aroma with its tree fruit and stone fruit bouquet. It has a complex flavour of honeysuckle, pear and peach with tangy quince and a hint of muscat with a long citrus finish.
Partner the white with sushi such as avocado, prawn, and grapefruit nigiri, or a tuna tartare with diced eggplant and pomegranate with olive oil, lime juice, and soy sauce.
For my final recommendation, we journey north from the southern Côtes du Rhône to Burgundy. The wine? A Louis Latour 2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay ($28.99; 91 points). You can go and spend $738 for a Louis Latour 2018 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru, which is one of the best white wines from Burgundy. Our $28.99 Louis Latour is nowhere in that league, but it is still a delicious Chardonnay to try and while it’s not a bargain, it represents good value.
Burgundy is the home to the Chardonnay grape. Unlike New World Chardonnays, which are usually oak-aged and robust, the Louis Latour is fermented and aged in stainless steel and is very elegant. It is similar to Chablis in being bone dry with a generous minerality, but it is slightly richer due to its more southerly origin in the Côtes d’Or in Burgundy.
On the nose, there is a fresh citrus aroma with a hint of toast. It displays peach, lemon, vanilla, minerals, and spice with a creamy texture. And it concludes with a toasted hazelnut and butterscotch finish. Serve with oysters, prawns, or lobster.
All of today’s wines are available at BCL Stores including Richmond’s three locations.
