Oh, no! Another sunny day in the South Okanagan. Another day to taste wines, enjoy the gorgeous panorama of the lake, the sunburnt hills, and the lush vineyards. And if you’re at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, you’ll be able to contribute to a program that brings the beautiful raptors back from the brink of extinction.
For over a decade, Burrowing Owl has enjoyed a cult following of devoted fans. And there is good reason. They have been making award-winning premium wines. Plus, the winery boasts a spectacular view over the valley down to Osoyoos Lake. And it also has a superb restaurant, the Sonora Room.
After a visit to the nearby Desert Centre, I decided to cool my heels in the popular Burrowing Owl Tasting Room. First up, their 2015 Pinot Gris ($20). Almost every winery in our province produces a Pinot Gris, and Burrowing Owl’s is one of the best. Unlike Italian Pinot Grigios which are made from the same grape, our Pinot Gris’ have a fruitier and bigger personality.
Expect a generous nose of peach, pear, grapefruit, and pineapple. Then savour the dry flavour of juicy nectarine, peach, and baked pear with plenty of lip-smacking acidity to entice your palate. Their tasting notes recommend a Thai-style Dungeness crap and pomelo salad.
Also delicious is their Chardonnay ($25). I tried the 2013 vintage about a month ago but the winery will probably be serving the 2014 vintage. The 2013 was stellar.
The nose and palate was complex with fresh lemon, banana, pineapple, and nectarine, along with hints of cloves and nuts from the subtle oak aging. Crab cakes or garlic sautéed prawns would pair beautifully with this classic Burrowing Owl Chard.
Switching to a red, here in BC Merlot is the most widely planted red grape and at Burrowing Owl their 2012 Merlot ($30) is delicious. Inhale fragrances of blackberry, plum, orange peel, vanilla and cocoa. And the smooth rich flavour has plenty more dark fruit, mocha, and toast.
The winery’s tasting notes recommend serving this classic red with lamb shanks or eggplant parmigiana.
Last but not least, the 2013 Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc ($35) is a gentler more seductive cousin to Cabernet Sauvignon. B.C. Cab Francs are usually better-balanced than their more famous relative because they can easily ripen in our climate. They have good body but they are not as firm or tannic as Cab Sauvs. I liked its medley of red currant, blueberry and blackberry fruit with notes of tobacco and of sagebrush, which grows next to the vineyards.
Like most B.C. wineries, Burrowing Owl charges $3 for a four wine sample. Since 2004, all the tasting money goes to the Burrowing Owl Conservation Society of B.C. and its project of rehabilitating the endangered species.
Almost $900,000 has been raised for this worthy project which rears the little owls in captivity and reintroduces them into the wild in the Okanagan Valley. Enjoy a white or a red, and do a green good-deed at the same time!
Eric Hanson is retired Richmond teacher and local wine expert. He can be reached at [email protected]
