Another summer, another beautiful B.C. getaway.
This time my family headed due north, to Campbell River, a small city on Vancouver Island that has a cornucopia of outdoor activities at its disposal. With the nickname “Salmon Capital of the World,” you can guess what activity takes the lead.
Here, we were to attend the wedding of two great friends, but I had at least one other intention on this trip — a cheeky early morning, guided fishing expedition up Seymour Narrows, at the southern entrance of Johnstone Strait.
Campbell River’s economy is driven by mining, forestry, fishing, a nearby hydroelectric dam and tourism. It has a classic West Coast vibe, with vistas of the ocean to the east and lush, green rainforest-covered mountains to the west.
It’s a BC Ferries ride and 160-km drive north of Nanaimo away. From Richmond, you can take the Horseshoe Bay or Tsawwassen ferry route to Nanaimo (I choose to reserve a spot out of Tsawwassen as it’s less driving and more ocean gazing).
As a visitor to Campbell River, a number of free activities are on offer, such as hikes and bike rides in local and provincial parks, seaside walks and fires, sandy beach activities and a quaint downtown stroll that offers a pier to, perhaps, catch a glimpse of whales and dolphins.
Because the wedding was at Dolphin’s Resort, a short drive north of the city, I chose to stay at the historic Painter’s Lodge, which is the place to be if you want a mix of peace and quiet as well as a true West Coast experience, such as guided fishing, grizzly bear tours ($389 for a full day in Bute Inlet) and whale watching expeditions by boat ($189 for 5.5 hours). The lodge continues to offer rowboat fishing packages, to catch a Tyee (30-plus pound salmon) the way it is meant to be caught (become a Tyee Club member!).
On the day of the wedding I was up at a sprightly 5 a.m. to catch a boat (a 17’ Boston Whaler Montauk) off of the lodge’s docks with my guide Ron Collins.
For $299 the lodge appropriately dresses you in fishing gear and easily checks you in and out, with a fishing licence (if you don’t have one) and coffee in hand.
It just so happened to be the one rainy day of the summer to date.
After a surprisingly smooth, comfortable (albeit windy) blast up the strait for 25 minutes we reached Seymour Narrows, a 1.5-km wide, deep-water passage between Quadra Island and Vancouver Island, which form a tree-lined canyon with bald eagles, seals, dolphins and whales acting as gatekeepers.
The narrows is a phenomenal site to behold, with powerful, swirling eddies and whirlpools created by an incredibly strong tide. This is where the vast majority of the Fraser River salmon must pass through.
What I’m trying to say is that if you don’t catch any fish, the experience is still amazing and well worth the money.
Now about those fish.
We figure the cool, rainy weather must have scared them off. Or maybe it was the barometric pressure (seriously); or the bananas I brought on the boat; I didn’t bring my lucky cap; I put sugar in my coffee?
Now, I actually caught a wild Coho salmon, which is a non-retention fish. Of course, if you’re a true sportsman, and friend of the orcas, any fish may be released after a requisite photo. If you choose to retain your fish Painter’s chefs can cook it for you at the Tyee Pub.
Painter’s has an ambitious plan to rejuvenate the historic lodge. In offering so many wildlife adventures, it is gearing toward a visitor interested in experiencing Mother Nature. Meanwhile, its luxury amenities, such as spas, gourmet ocean-side dining and upscale service appeal to every guest.
When you enter the lodge the history jumps out at you with hallways lined with photos of Tyee Club members through the decades. Accommodations are spacious and the wood lodges offer a rustic vibe but with all the modern finishes.
Following a well-executed Douglas-Donkersloot beach wedding, our two-night stay ($199 per night) was capped off by a trip to April Point Resort and Spa for a morning brunch. A water taxi takes you across the strait and food is delicious and local. Resident sea lions are there to greet and wave goodbye.
On our way back to Duke Point ferry terminal we stopped at Elk Falls Provincial Park to visit what some local yokels call the “Campbilano Suspension Bridge.”
-Accommodation provided by Painter’s Lodge. Ferry service provided by BC Ferries.
